Getting sprouted up in here.

Growing plants from seed requires light – a lot of it. Conventional wisdom is to plant your seeds and put them in a sunny window, but to get hardy, non-spindly seedlings, you’re going to need a really sunny window. So, what’s one to do without 10 foot, Southern facing windows? Well, you can build a grow light for about 20 bucks.

Alright, so every time I use the term ‘grow light’ I cringe a little. I mean, no offense to whoever grows whatever, but ‘grow lights’ have this certain connotation. Like, that they’re used for growing things you might need to grow without the use of the sun… as in, inside, so, you know, nobody will see them. But, regardless, I’m just starting seedlings, and these lights are nowhere near powerful enough to use for illicit purposes, so you’re out of luck if you’re lookin’ for that kind of info, broseph. Read More

My first homebrew - An American Pale Ale, flavored with Cascade hops

After two months of excitement, anticipation, self-doubt and generally a whole lot of waiting, I finally had my first homebrew last night. These last few weeks have been the hardest, as the beer has been sitting in bottles in the basement for three weeks, carbonating and conditioning, and it was difficult not to just open one up and try – but, I am happy to say that Read More

I’m loath to admit it, but last year I bought most of my plants as seedlings. In my defense, Spring kind of crept up on me – all of a sudden it was warm and time to transplant, and I didn’t want my first tomatoes setting in September, so I bought already nursed plants, like a sucker.

Not this year!

While I won’t be fully immune to impulse flower purchases, I went ahead and ordered a bunch of seed packets from Hirt’s online. Some of these will be sown straight into the ground, but a many will require a head start before setting them outside. Either way, it’ll be a lot less expensive, and a lot more fun, to start these myself.

Here’s what’s currently winging its way from Ohio to the big city:

Beefsteak Pole Tomato
San Marzano Tomato
Fourth of July Hybrid Tomato
Yellow Pear Cherry Tomato
Black Krim Tomato
Chocolate Cherry Tomato
Gourmet Green Bean
Black Beauty Eggplant
Green Dragon Slicing Cucumber
Early Yellow Crookneck Summer Squash
Black Beauty Summer Squash Zucchini
Snow Pea
White Lisbon Bunching Onion
Compact Basil
Bouquet Dill Herb
Sage Herb
Cilantro/Coriander
Rosemary
Monster Smash Pumpkin
Crackerjack African Marigold
Rocky Mountain Blue Penstemon
Blue Victoria Salvia
Zinnia

Oh yeah, that’s 6 kinds of tomatoes! Now, If I can only find a place to put them…

I took advantage of the long weekend and brewed on Monday. As I’m working on the basics, I’ve been trying some fairly disparate styles (Pale Ale, Stout, now Wheat). With each style I get to work with different specialty grains, hops, yeast, and, this time, spices. It’s really interesting to see how different each brew is, but even more interesting to see how similar they are. The most striking similarity is that the wort smells almost exactly the same for every beer I’ve made, like hot sweet cereal (which is exactly what it is).

Coriander, Orange Zest, and Saaz Flavoring Hops

This is a simple American Wheat, which I’m calling ‘Orange Honey Wheat,’ the first recipe I have designed on my own (though, it’s pretty simplistic – it’s a little like saying I wrote a recipe for a turkey sandwich).

On a side note – I was going to add 4oz of Honey malt to give it some honey flavor, but my LHBS is closed on Mondays, so I’ll have to hope the real honey imparts some flavor. (Honey is almost 100% fermentable, so most of the sugars will end up as alcohol, which can ‘dry out’ the beer.) Hopefully, it won’t be terrible!

Orange Honey Wheat
6.6 pounds Briess Bavarian Wheat LME
1/2 pound Carapils (30 min, 155 degrees)
1 pound of Orange-Blossom Honey (added to the primary after fermentation slows)
1 oz Hallertau (60 min)
1 oz Saaz (10 min)
1 oz crushed coriander seeds (2 min)
1 oz fresh sweet orange zest (2 min)
Wyeast 1010 American Wheat

OG: 1.043 (without honey addition)
Batch size: 5.5
Boil average: 5.5
IBUs: 20

I pitched the yeast around 9pm last night, and this morning it was happily bubbling away, already a good bit of krausen on top. It smells pretty amazing, with the orange and coriander really coming through.

I’m getting pretty good at the basic brew process, but still haven’t tasted anything finished – hopefully I won’t have to change my methods too much once I do!

Probably what god smells like - hops on the vine

Too Many Hop Puns:

The other night, I dumped a bunch of leaves in my beer – and I can’t wait to see what hoppens.

To boost beer’s aroma, hops are often added after fermentation, in a process called ‘dry hopping,’ during which the beer takes on the smell of the hop oils. Any particularly fragrant beer (e.g. any IPA), is most likely dry hopped to give it a ‘hop nose.’ As anyone with stopped (or hopped) up sinuses can tell you, smell accounts for a good deal of taste, so this can really add something to the character of a beer.

If you’ve ever taken a whiff of Sierra Nevada’s most famous beverage, then you mostly likely know the magic that is the smell of the Cascade hops. Used in many American ales, Cascade hops have a fruity and spicy smell and taste, kind of like an angry grapefruit. I used Cascade hops for finishing the wort (additions of 1/2 oz at 15, 10 and 5 minutes) when I was brewing, and to accentuate the smell and taste of my pale ale, I poured a w-hopping (sorry) ounce of whole leaf hops into my beer, with about 5 days left to go before bottling. This should be just enough time to let the oils fully disperse Read More

Picking up where I last left off, my wort is climbing toward boil, and the brew’s about to kick into high gear.

As my digital thermometer peaks over 200, I measure out the bittering hops on a cooking scale, ready to pour them into the brew as soon as I see the first bubble.

Dependent on boiling time, hops impart different flavors to the burgeoning beer; the ones boiled for a longer time (more than  around 40 minutes) primarily add bitterness. Without getting too technical, hops contain chemicals called alpha acids, which, when boiled, isomerize and become bitter. The longer you boil these alpha acids, the more isomers are created, and the more bitter the beer becomes.

Hops are fragrant, being flowers, and when dropped in the boiling wort (or just taken out of their sealed packaging), they release aromatic essential oils. Just like aroma-therapy, the hop oils evaporate into Read More

On an unseasonably warm day this past weekend, I brewed my second five-gallon batch of beer, a traditional Irish Stout. My first attempt, an American Pale Ale, is still conditioning in the primary bucket (and is still at least a month away from drinking), but as I had just received a new 6 gallon Better Bottle plastic carboy to use as a fermenter, I was anxious to go ahead and start using it.

A very stout stout

The first step in brewing is deciding what type of beer you want. As this was only my second batch, and have yet to determine if my first was a success, I went with a kit from Midwest Supplies to make the process simple (I had a gift certificate included in the Groupon I originally purchased – available again here!). I chose a Stout, because I wanted to try something as different as possible from my first batch, without requiring a more elaborate set-up or advanced skills.

So this past Saturday, with kit in hand, and wife out of town and away from my still-really-messy-as-a-novice-at-this hobby, I set out all my equipment on the kitchen table and prepared to brew. To read the very basics about what goes into brewing, see my previous post.

With my 30 quart boiling pot 2/3’s full of water (5 gallons) and very carefully moved to the stove, I turned the gas to high, and waited for my water to get warm. Read More

A few months ago, I was searching for the perfect Christmas present for my brother and stumbled upon a deal for a beer brewing kit. My brother loves beer and, being something of a hippie, I thought that he might enjoy brewing his own. Being a discerning consumer, I set off to research different kits, the tools of the trade, and subsequently read quite a bit about the brewing process. In the end, I settled on and purchased a kit for my brother.

And then I bought one for myself.

Brewing beer is basically like a big chemistry experiment (or you can think of it as cooking if you’re scared of science) in which you end up with beer.  I can’t believe I had never considered this as a hobby – I love science, cooking and beer – it is shockingly up my alley.

Before I started reading up on it, I knew that beer was made from grain, hops, water and yeast, but nothing of how it was done. For anybody that has wondered about brewing beer, I’ll outline the basics of what goes into creating a simple beer.

Basic Ingredients:

Malted Barley

1) Sugar – In the case of beer, this is primarily sugar from malted (germinated and then dried to halt it from actually growing into a plant) barley. The barley is crushed, and then steeped in hot water to remove the sugars for use. Alternately, homebrewers often purchase malt extract, which comes as a powder or thick syrup, also made by crushing and steeping grains in hot water.

The amount of sugar determines sweetness and alcohol content, although these factors are also impacted by adding sugar from other sources (say corn or rye), which may or may not be metabolized to different degrees by the yeast later.

Hops on the vine

2) Hops – Hops are flower buds that grow on vines. They do two general things to the taste of beer: First, they provide the bitterness that offsets the sweetness of the alcohol and sugar in beer, giving it its characteristic flavor. Second, they provide a flowery or citrusy taste and smell, which is commonly referred to in beer as being hoppy (very appropriate). They also have magical powers that ward off some infectious bacteria, etc, etc, but that’s really beside the point of this post.

Yeast. Yum!

3) Yeast – There are a bajillion strains of yeast, but we are only concerned here with a few of them. Brewer’s yeast is added to the hop and sugar mixture (called wort) and it ferments it into beer. Different strains are responsible for different tastes. Some yeasts are ‘cleaner’ tasting, some convert more (or less) sugar into alcohol, some even contribute specific flavors (e.g. ‘I get notes of apple’) to the finished beer.

Brewing Basics:

In a big pot, a water and sugar solution is heated to a boil. Hops are added and boiled in the solution for different amounts of time. Hops that are added early and boiled longer add a bitter taste to the beer. Hops added later and boiled less will impart the hoppy flavor with less or no bitterness, and hops boiled very shortly, or added when the heat is turned off, will add a hoppy smell. (Heat breaks down oils in the hops, so the length of time they are boiled makes a big difference in the tastes that they impart).

The final step, in this simple brew, is adding yeast. Once the wort has been boiled (usually for an hour), it is cooled, and poured into a bucket or other container, and yeast is added. The vessel is closed off such that carbon dioxide can escape but oxygen cannot enter, and left alone for a couple weeks to ferment.

Done! Sorta…

You have beer! Well, maybe. Depending on your recipe, you might need to let it sit for longer, or you might want to add other flavors like fruit or wood or more aroma hops, and you still have to bottle or keg it, as well as carbonate it, and, of course, cool it down before you drink it.

Overall, it can get pretty involved, but it can also be made simpler by starting out with an ingredient kit. A kit will contain all of the ingredients necessary to brew, and will  have specific step-by-step instructions on how to do what, and for how long to do so.